A fully dispersive weakly nonlinear model for water waves

K. Nadaoka, S. Beji, Yasuyuki Nakagawa

Research output: Contribution to journalArticle

39 Citations (Scopus)

Abstract

A fully dispersive weakly nonlinear water wave model is developed via a new approach named the multiterm-coupling technique, in which the velocity field is represented by a few vertical-dependence functions having different wave-numbers. This expression of velocity, which is approximately irrotational for variable depth, is used to satisfy the continuity and momentum equations. The Galerkin method is invoked to obtain a solvable set of coupled equations for the horizontal velocity components and shown to provide an optimum combination of the prescribed depth-dependence functions to represent a random wave-field with diversely varying wave-numbers.

Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)303-318
Number of pages16
JournalProceedings - Royal Society of London, A
Volume453
Issue number1957
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - Jan 1 1997
Externally publishedYes

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water waves
Water waves
Water Waves
Dependence Function
Nonlinear Model
Galerkin method
continuity equation
Nonlinear Waves
Galerkin methods
Galerkin Method
Velocity Field
Momentum
Horizontal
velocity distribution
Vertical
momentum
Model

All Science Journal Classification (ASJC) codes

  • Mathematics(all)
  • Engineering(all)
  • Physics and Astronomy(all)

Cite this

A fully dispersive weakly nonlinear model for water waves. / Nadaoka, K.; Beji, S.; Nakagawa, Yasuyuki.

In: Proceedings - Royal Society of London, A, Vol. 453, No. 1957, 01.01.1997, p. 303-318.

Research output: Contribution to journalArticle

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