A fully dispersive weakly nonlinear model for water waves

K. Nadaoka, S. Beji, Yasuyuki Nakagawa

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

42 Citations (Scopus)


A fully dispersive weakly nonlinear water wave model is developed via a new approach named the multiterm-coupling technique, in which the velocity field is represented by a few vertical-dependence functions having different wave-numbers. This expression of velocity, which is approximately irrotational for variable depth, is used to satisfy the continuity and momentum equations. The Galerkin method is invoked to obtain a solvable set of coupled equations for the horizontal velocity components and shown to provide an optimum combination of the prescribed depth-dependence functions to represent a random wave-field with diversely varying wave-numbers.

Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)303-318
Number of pages16
JournalProceedings - Royal Society of London, A
Issue number1957
Publication statusPublished - Jan 1 1997
Externally publishedYes

All Science Journal Classification (ASJC) codes

  • Mathematics(all)
  • Engineering(all)
  • Physics and Astronomy(all)


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